Why is Wisconsin known for cheese? In short: in the late 1800s, Wisconsin farmers switched from wheat to dairy, immigrants from Europe brought their cheesemaking know-how, and the state built a culture of training, licensing and pride around it. Today Wisconsin is the leading cheese-producing state in the country. Hence the foam wedges on our heads. So why is Wisconsin known for cheese? The short answer: rich dairy land, generations of skilled cheesemakers and a whole lot of pride.
Here's the longer, tastier version.
It started with wheat (really)
In the mid-1800s, Wisconsin was wheat country. But growing the same crop year after year wore out the soil, pests moved in and prices dropped. Farmers needed something else.
Dairy was the answer. Wisconsin's cool climate, plentiful water and rolling grassland were made for cows. Advocates for dairy farming, most famously W.D. Hoard, who later became governor, pushed farmers to make the switch and to farm smarter while they did it. By the end of the 1800s, dairy had taken over, and Wisconsin earned the nickname it still wears on its license plates: America's Dairyland.
Why cheese and not just milk?
Before refrigerated trucks, fresh milk didn't travel far. Cheese did. Turning milk into cheese let farmers preserve it, store it and ship it to cities all over the country. Small cheese factories popped up in towns across the state, often one every few miles, so farmers could haul their milk in each morning.
Immigrant cheesemakers brought the recipes
Wisconsin's cheese story is an immigrant story. Settlers from Switzerland, Germany, Scandinavia, Italy and other parts of Europe brought cheesemaking traditions with them, and the old recipes found a new home here. That's why you'll find Swiss-style cheeses in the southern part of the state, and why Wisconsin makes such a wide range of European styles today.
Wisconsin makers also created a few originals. Colby is named for the town of Colby, Wisconsin, where it was first made. Brick cheese was born here too. And of course, there are cheese curds, the squeaky snack every Wisconsin kid grows up on.
Wisconsin licenses its cheesemakers
Here's a fun one: Wisconsin requires a license to make cheese commercially. Becoming a licensed cheesemaker takes coursework and an apprenticeship under a licensed maker. It's a big part of why the state's reputation for quality has stuck.
Wisconsin also has a Master Cheesemaker program, an advanced certification for experienced cheesemakers who want to prove they know a specific cheese inside and out. It takes years of experience to even apply. These folks are serious about their craft.
Farmers and factories working together
Part of what made Wisconsin cheese grow was how the work was organized. Farmers raised the cows and delivered milk. Local cheese factories, many of them cooperatives owned by the farmers themselves, turned it into cheese. Railroads carried it to Chicago and beyond. The University of Wisconsin got involved too, teaching dairy science and helping makers improve their methods. Farm, factory, school and market all pulled in the same direction.
Small makers, big variety
Wisconsin never went all in on one kind of cheese. Plenty of the state's cheese still comes from family-run creameries and small plants, many of them run by makers whose parents and grandparents made cheese before them. That mix of big and small is why you'll find everyday cheddar and award-winning specialty cheese side by side here. It's also why flavored cheeses, small-batch blues and new styles keep popping up. Wisconsin cheesemakers like to experiment.
Cheese is part of the culture
Wisconsin doesn't just make cheese, it celebrates it. Fried cheese curds at the county fair. A cheese tray at every graduation party and holiday. Supper clubs that start you off with a relish tray and a crock of cheese spread. And yes, the Cheesehead hats. What started as a farm decision is now part of who we are.
Why it still matters today
Plenty of states make cheese. What sets Wisconsin apart is the depth of it: generations of know-how, a licensing system that keeps the bar high, a university that still studies dairy, and a lot of people who care a great deal about getting it right. When you buy Wisconsin cheese, you're buying into all of that. And it shows up in the flavor.
What it means for your board
All that history means you can find almost any style of cheese made right here: sharp aged cheddars, creamy brie, bold blues, and flavored cheddars with everything from peppers to bourbon to blueberries. Curious about the range? Our guide to the types of Wisconsin cheese breaks it down.
Taste a little Wisconsin
We're a Wisconsin cheese shop in River Falls, right on the St. Croix, and we love sharing the good stuff. Browse our Wisconsin artisan cheese online. Our cheeses ship nationwide (except in June, July and August, when it's too hot for cheese to travel), or choose pickup in River Falls at checkout. New here? Start at That Girl Brie's Wisconsin cheese shop, or bring us your questions on Ask the Cheesemonger.
Next time someone asks why is Wisconsin known for cheese, hand them a slice and let it do the talking. Our Wisconsin cheese ships nationwide.
